Known to be among the most respected voices in fashion journalism, Porter has been a menswear critic for outlets like The Financial Times, The Guardian, GQ, or i-D for over 20 years. The publication of What Artists Wear, in 2021, and Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and the Philosophy of Fashion, last year, made him an established author and thinker within the field. Curious about his fascination with fashion and culture, we spent a day together in his London flat to learn more about what he thinks of fashion writing, what he wears, and why he wears it.
‘Many people are scared of fashion, and I think it’s because there are two ways of seeing the word. There’s ‘Fashion’, the noun, which is the name for the fashion industry, which many people feel very separated from, isolated by, rejected by. But then, there’s the verb, ‘to fashion’. Every single human, every single day, fashions their body. It’s an action that everyone does.
I think once you start seeing fashion as the verb ‘to fashion’, it actually opens it up because it allows us to consider how we fashion our body, what we’re doing when we fashion our body, what messages we’re sending out, what other messages we could send out, and it might start to loosen up this anxiety and fear that people have of fashion if they think about the actual agency they have within fashioning their own body.’
His view of his role as a critic sits on this dichotomy of meanings. Fascinated by fashion, he has chosen to place himself as an observer rather than an imposer of taste. ‘There is a kind of judgmental place the writer puts himself in, recommending something. It’s a very kind of didactic position. The thing about the music I like is, I don’t really care if anyone else likes it. I know that I like it, and that’s all that matters. I don’t have any kind of zeal to make other people like the things I like. I want them to like the things they like.’